The sun rose slightly earlier than the day before. The sun rose like rose concrete. The sun came up like a smoke alarm over Kathmandu which was already half-awake and blowing steam. It was a usual morning. I got up, I made coffee, I took a shower, I used a bar of soap with seabuckthorn […]

I walked for three days through the impossibly steep mid-hills of Eastern Nepal to reach this tiny hole-in-the-wall in the upper reaches of the Hongku river. The predominantly Kulung Rai village of Cheskam was saturated in late afternoon sun and the promise of millet. My feet felt like chhoila. We were quickly given a seat at […]

Things seemed to be going well. Well in the way that the days passed with ease and adequate happiness. I felt that this was one of those times I would look back upon with a mixture of envy and wonder, whenever it was that I once again majorly fucked everything up. It was only a […]

I woke up this morning and I wasn’t hungover; I was something else. I was dusty, ragged from too much breathing, from too much Kathmandu. I woke up this morning with a dust hangover. The problem with a dust hangover is that having a few quick glasses of dust in the morning doesn’t help you […]